Kitronik offers DXF files for making a baby-baby grand case for your Klef Piano.
Timelapse Video of Build.
The Elmwood Glowforge only takes SVG & PNG files.
To get started I imported the DXF file for "Kitronik_Perspex+Wood_Piano" into Inkscape and separated the layers to be laser cut into a SVG file and copied the layers to be embossed/engraved into a separate PNG document.
Links for both are below.
Since every laser cutter is different, you mileage may vary.
With the two documents uploaded to the Glowforge, I noticed the scaling was slightly too small from the DXF > SVG conversion. With the Klef in the actual bed of the Glowforge, did some trial end error rescaling by scanning the Klef in the forge & then sizing the SVG template to make sure it would sit in the casing.
Here is a 12 minute video detailing the assembly.
Both goes at assembly, I snapped the balsa while curving the back of the piano, so you may want to add even more cuts to the SVG version above to make bending easier.
I've created a CONCERT MODE file for the Micro:Bit where each note plays a song.
Great for impressing people. A very tiny amount... with a tiny piano.
Remember to wave your fingers in the air feverishly.
Click this link to get the HEX file to Download to your Micro:Bit
See Part one of this blog if you want step by step instructions on how to install the file.
And thanks to Kitronik for another super fun project.
As much fun as the 1.0 hoodie was, realized could take it up a notch by adding a
That way it would flash along with the beat when you wear it to a concert or on stage.
We stock a 6v and a 12v. To drive one length of EL Wire you need to use the 6V.
Before soldering anything, it's a good idea to make sure the circuit works with alligator clips.
From Left : EL Wire adapter to sound activated inverter to 4xAA battery pack.
The dashed white lines on the inverter go to the RED lead on the battery pack.
Then I cut some heat shrink tubing. Important to slide this on the wire BEFORE you solder it.
At this point realized I needed to strip the ends of the battery pack a bit more to get a good connection.
Attempted to do it 'old school' by rolling a boxcutter along the wire. Then found out it was Stranded Core and gave up to go find the excellent set of Hakko wire strippers.
If your wire is solid core you can get away with rolling it under a boxcutter, stranded core you end up cutting through half the strands & won't work.
Once you have the insulation cut, for stranded core, roll it off with your two fingers. This will twist the wire to make it easier to solder.
Tin both the leads
If I have very fine wire, rather than trying to horizontally solder them,
I will sometimes twist them together with needle nose & then solder that connection. Especially for clothing which will have more movement and torque on the joint.
Don't hold the heat source in one spot or you may get smoke & eventually possibly fire.
Also the tube will only shrink so much, so use the right guage.
The hoodie being modded is a BetaBrand Reversible Disco Hoodie from San Fransisco.
For larger (non-hoodie) projects, If you want to drive 3+ meters of EL Wire, you would need to use
For the x8 you would have to cut off the barrel jack adapter & strip the leads a bit.
Intended as a companion to read before the OFFICIAL BUILD GUIDE
Some additional hints on things to be aware of during assembly.
Use the buttons to prop board up to make it even for soldering.
Little containers are great for organizing kits with many parts.
You need to save your component lead 'off-cuts' so clip them off FACING AWAY from you into a small box.
Careful to distinguish between similar LOOKING parts.
Can use needle-nose pliers to bend leads out a little to make it easier to mount on the board. Be very gentle.
When preparing to insert the IC, gently & SLOWLY roll / bend it against a firm non-static, non-scratch surface. This will make the pins easier to insert.
*OPTIONAL / NOT RECOMMENDED*
I pulled the battery JST connector out to make it easier to move the board around for soldering. It was firmly in there, so used two sets of pliers to remove. IT's VERY easy to DAMAGE your board like this, so only do this step if you are super confident in your abilities. Not recommended & NO REFUNDS if you damage your product. Mini linesman (square pliers) must be parallel to sides of JST mount on board.
If you haven't recently trimmed your fingernails, I'm sure a motivated person could do it without tools as well.
*/ END OF OPTIONAL STEP*
A real PROTIP is to use tools to prop components FLUSH to the board from underneath & solder them in on top.
This will keep it even when you solder.
The serial programmer, in this instance.
The LCD will no longer let you sit it entirely flat.
The Volume & Brightness Dials ESPECIALLY must be soldered in flush, or they will not be able to turn as they will hit the LCD. Check it on both sides to make sure no gaps are under one of the Dials connector legs.
Use a microscope (or magnifying glass) to make sure all your solder joints are not overlapping.
For the curious, I viewed the USB microscope output on Ubuntu using Cheese App. No drivers were necessary.
*/ END OF OPTIONAL STEP*
All that's left is the case assembly.
I used clear gorilla tape to affix the speaker to the back plate.
Can now play all the demo games on the card !
Remember to sleep!
*We had some extra colored buttons around the office, so used those to spice it up a bit. The standard kit comes with black buttons.
IMPORTANT NOTE : Had a brief panic it was dead, as I accidentally shut it off while it was loading a game. When you turn it back on, the screen will be lit, but no content shown.
If this happens to you, follow the C-button (top left) reboot method here :
BE PATIENT while games are loading, up to 30s each.
With the 2018 Maker Festival Toronto coming up on July 7th and 8th, we thought it would be fun to build a few things.
Adafruit already has an excellent guide for building the hardware and getting the software working, so we won't go too far into the details on that part. A few things to note:
We started by soldering everything up and installing the software. Here's a video showing the eyes before we built the box
We then took a bunch of measurements and drew some basic drawings. A whiteboard is your friend here.
We used MakerCase to generate the box plans, and then we put the SVG file into Inkscape to add all the holes and artwork. Here it is good to measure twice and cut once. It is easy to make a mistake, and the Glowforge Proofgrade material is not cheap! Here is a video where we are cutting the box on the Glowforge:
We wanted to make it so our fans could see the guts of the project, so we separately cut the top of the box with acrylic. We have found that these boxes are quite sturdy if glued on all sides except the top, so we made the top piece removable.
A bit of assembly and tweaking and we could not be happier with the results! We haven't even tried to update the code yet, this is just the default code. If we have time we will add some sensors and have the eyes react appropriately.
Bill of Material:
We have had a lot of fun with our Glowforge Laser Cutter! The other day thought it would be neat to make a puzzle with it. Turns out others have had the same idea, and there are already tools to do this!
Working with the Glowforge is super easy. You can use most image files for the graphics and you can use SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics) files for cuts.
A fellow Glowforge owner named Draradech built a super handy tool for generating SVG cut files for puzzles. You basically just select some parameters and it spits out the SVG file...too cool! In this case, I made a 9x9 puzzle that was 240 x 175 mm:
You can engrave graphics into wood or acrylic with the Glowforge and then cut out the pieces, but on the first time I did this it made a puzzle that was way too hard. Instead, I took a picture from an old calendar and put it on some 3mm birch plywood with spray adhesive:
After gluing the picture to the wood, I let it cure for 1 hour. I then uploaded the SVG file into the Glowforge user interface. I placed the cut lines onto the image, allowing a 1/4" gap all around since the Glowforge has about a 1/4" tolerance in terms of where you place the image/cuts. Here are some pics from the Glowforge UI as well as video of the Glowforge running:
And here is the final result! After wiping off the smoke residue from the picture, it looked great! I glued the frame to an uncut piece of wood to finish everything off.
Total time invested was about 10 minutes, not including the runtime of 5 minutes on the Glowforge. Pretty awesome!
When you are in a panic for a last minute gift and you have a laser cutter, the sky is the limit! It is a lot more fun to make a gift than to just buy one, so yesterday we had some fun doing some customization to a Rainbow Light Show kit.
Rob designed some constellations in Inkscape and he was looking for a way to integrate them with the Rainbow Light Show. Building on our MakerCase box building expertise from a previous blog post, we thought it would be fun to edge-light a piece of clear acrylic with the LED Strip from the Rainbow Light Show.
The results could not have been better, check it out: